Chablis

Monday 27 May

This morning we set off at about 11am, just as our landlady was taking Baldon, one of her horses, back to the paddock following a home visit from his chiropractor. We collected John for a scenic drive through a few vineyards of the Côte d’Or and then moved onto the motorway to arrive in Chablis just after 1pm.

“Au Fil du Zinc” was another restaurant recommended by our landlord and we were fortunate to get the last available table. The Japanese chef of this small bistro style restaurant/bar previously worked for Joel Robuchon, and the food we had today demonstrated that influence. Three small, delicious crackers stuck in a bowl of pebbles were placed in the middle of the table to start, and a bottle of 2013 Grand Cru Chablis was chosen with the help of “the boss” (as our waiter called him). 

We all chose the three-course option:  As entrée, John and I had the white asparagus, ham culatello and mustard tiles and BDR had the marinated wild mackerel, chickpea crisps, coriander and turmeric potatoes. For mains, BDR and I had the Challans duckling with spices, turnip and pureed artichoke and John had the catch of the day, spinach and grey shrimp broth with peas, and we each had a small cheese platter to finish. What an amazing lunch – we all absolutely loved it. Very simple, no fuss but very efficient service and the most beautiful food. We found out later this evening that this is our landlord’s favourite restaurant in Burgundy and I completely understand why.

Then back home along the motorway to join the Route des Grands Crus and meander home (for almost 3 hours) through all of those famous Burgundian villages and vineyards. Just time for a bit of a rest before joining our landlords at 7:30 for “supper” in their beautiful home next door.

We started in the living room around the fireplace with fabulous hot-out-of-the-oven gougéres served with a 2002 Pol Roger champagne – and two cats, Kit, the shy 14 year-old who allowed me to share her chair, and Albion, the cuddly 9 year-old who is like a huge fluffy rag doll. Then into the dining room for free-range chicken (just like Bresse but from another producer preferred by our landlady) which had been roasted in the correct way – started in a cold oven. It was so delicious and so tender and served with a lovely mixture of vegetables along with two fabulous 2002 Burgundian reds. Then a bowl of perfect strawberries dressed with a syrup that included some liqueur – something like Cointreau I think, served with a Beaujolais which our landlord said was the perfect wine for strawberries – and it was. 

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We had such a fantastic lunch and the most perfect evening next door – fabulous food, amazing wines, great conversation and lots of laughter. We are so lucky to have such fabulous landlords, and were very grateful that we only had to stroll a few metres to reach our front door!